Sunday, 2 December 2012

The Long Sleeve Seamed Dress

Finally some pictures of my finished dress (#131 Burda Style 08/2012). This dress took me a very long time to complete. I wanted the seams to align as perfect as I could. So I did a lot of adapting, basting and re-basting.
This dress patern is for a women of 1m70, I'm a petite so I needed to adjust the pattern to my length (1m60).

This is how I adjusted the pattern:
  • I took my measurements in the manner Burda instructs. 
  • Then I compared my measurements to these of Burda.
  • I adjusted my back length and my front waist length. I did this because these measurements didn't correspond with my measurements.
  • My front waist length is 45 cm. But I have a size 76 and in this size the front waist length is 47 cm. So I shortened the bodice with 2 cm. The same I did with the back length.

note for beginners (like me ;)): never shorten a bodice by cutting the underside of the pattern, you shorten a pattern by making a fold in the pattern and redrawing the lines (seams and pleads) so they'll match again. When you don't do it this way your seams wont align!

Because I adjusted a pattern for the first time I made a toile. I made my toile out of a very cheap polyester. This dress (showed below) ended up well and now I wear it to go to student parties.

While I was making this dress I met my knew best sewing companion.
It's so handy! I can't do without! This makes it so much easier to align those seams because your seam allowance is the same everywhere! Before I measured with my measuringtape but this is less accurate in my opinion.

Making the dress and how to align the seams and topstitching

For this dress I used a 100% wool. It was €35/meter, so I couldn't afford to mess it up!


Below you can see the beautiful aligned seams and top stitching.

This is how I did the top stitching:
  1. The top stitching in the bodice was already done, then I (machine)basted the two parts (bodice and skirt) together and aligned the seams. Then I pressed! Don't forget this, it's the most important part!
  2. While the two parts where basted I marked the point where the top stitching had to begin with a white basting thread (see below)
  3. Then I undid my basting, topstiched the seam and stitched it all together again, while paying attention to the seam and top stitching! I do this by pinning the top stitching and seam together before pinning the rest of the bodice and skirt together. Then I stitch.
  4. Et voila! perfect aligned seams and top stitching!

 And here is my dress! The pictures are taken at the première of a local theatre piece: Popcorn. I loved it! It was a theatre piece like I've never seen before with lots of action.

(btw: I adjusted the sleeves of the dress, I think the original sleeves made me look smaller and made the dress way to conservative.)


  1. You look stunning in this dress! This dress has been very popular and many people made ​​a version of it (I'm going to find the link for you to understand it) everyone had complaints that the seams of the waist did not fit ... So, you are a little genius!

  2. Thank you Rosy! You just made my day!

  3. This dress looks fantastic. How did you adjust the sleeves? I ask because I've made this dress and kept the shape of the sleeves but made them much shorter, more like cap sleeves - unfortunately, I can't lift my arms very much.

  4. Hi Thank you very much! I've redrawn the pattern of the sleeve so the sleeve became straight. Then I took 5cm of the sleeve. I think it is important to keep the sleeves wide enough at the top else your movements will be limited in the dress ;)